Kuvempu’s Kuppali

The journey on the Bangalore-Shimoga intercity train on the way to Theerthahalli was indeed a splendid, chugging past the sleepy, hibernating cities on the way. Glimmering chai and snacks shops near the platform of every station enticed us to come out of our berths but the piercing cold winds forced our lethargic bodies to huddle comfortably inside the sleeping bags. As we reached the Shimoga city, contradictory to the media reports, the rustling hawkers, busy commuters swaggering all through the platform and packed pavements reminded us that we are not far from the noisy Bangalore. But the serene and enchanting ambience of Theerthahalli and its surrounding still lingered in our minds and propelled us in the same direction without dousing the adventurous spirit. Boarding on the Theerthahalli bus, en route to Kuppali-the birth place of the celebrated poet Kuppali Venkatappa Puttappa (Kuvempu)- the journey meandered through ghats, the lush evergreen forests of Shettyhalli reserve forest area which offered us an insight into the Malnad region, which was hitherto known only through the text for all of us!
Emerald fields of paddy, Gulmohar trees with blooming flowers that were lending colour and life to the green canopy of the thick forest. Well groomed areca and coconut grooves kept us awake throughout the journey. The winding Tunga river flowing with less water was indeed a testimony to the sad saga of gambling monsoon even in the rain rich land. But the sylvan beauty of the Theerthalli,which was evident in every frame of the sudeep enacted My Autograph, has eclipsed all odds which could however take away the interest of any visitor.
A quick 15 minutes drive from theertha halli, traversing into higher climes of Sahyadri pug marked with steep hairpin curves and thick forest lead us to Kuppali. The moment we got down from the bus, we experienced the warmth of nature that has been a hidden secret behind all the works of Kuvempu. Kuppali is relatively calm, verdant and seemed to be untapped far from the swarming tourists despite a luxurious Rajahamsa bus facility from the capital. Green glades, aromatic coffee plantations down the slopes, gushing stream and swaying areca groves welcomed us to the birth place of Kuvempu.
As it was planned, the team of seven journos landed up in Kuppali to attend the Biodiversity nature camp which incidentally marked the 102 birth anniversary of Rashtrakavi Kuvempu. It was a rare occasion for all of us to be a part of his birthday celebration along with his son, daughter and grandchildren coupled with pleasant stay at the birth place of the poet and could become a long cherishable experience in our lives. The nature camp planned over three days offered us a detailed picture about the life, culture and tradition of Malnad region. Exploring the diverse flora and fauna of the Kuvempu’s Kuppali, reading his works at his own house was like dream come true for anybody.
Away from the mind boggling crowd and noisy situations of the city life, the thought provoking lectures on the works of Kuvempu and a botanical trekking, identifying the unique local plant species was entirely new to us who are until used only to the flowers and trees of Lalbagh and Cubbon park. The dark, silent and cool atmosphere inside the deep forest was no less than a AC room in Bangalore. The narrow vallies occupied with the naturally grown tall trees interspersed with rows of ubiquitous local trees and call of the wild and chirping birds from the unknown part of the forest was a nail biting feel and thrilling to the core. All of us felt the oneness with nature which could bring in magical changes in anybody’s life.
Many times being the urban dwellers, we all know about the writings of the colossus but the inspiration and resource behind all of Kuvempu’s works get unnoticed. Fortunately this did not happen in our lives as we familiarised ourselves with all the places that makes their presence in his works. Efforts are on at his birth place to perpetuate his memories for posterity by the Kuvempu Prathishtana(R). Kavimane is today a memorial that houses rare collection of things and articles which were part of the poet’s life. Some of the many interesting things are the kalbi (a wooden store box for grains), dandige (palanquin), and Kuvempu’s wedding invitation and the mantapa in which he married Hemavathi on the midnight of April 30, 1937. As one goes round the house, renovated at a cost of Rs. 75 lakh, it reveals more about the poet and his life through rare pictures of his childhood, grandchildren, his days at Udayaravi in Mysore, etc.
The house is typical of the Malnad area, complete with a separate room for pregnant women and small wooden cradle suspended from the ceiling beside the bed. A small columned ventilator above the kitchen, which allowed free flow of smoke all over the attic is today a rare sight. Kavimane is open to visitors all through the year from 9.30 a.m.to 6.30 p.m. Besides house hold things, a separate section of the house on the attic houses the rare manuscripts of Kuvempu, including that of Sri Ramayana Darshanam for the public display.

Apart from the Kavimane, Kavishaila atop a small hillock next to his house where Kuvempu derived inspiration for the poetic muse was worth seeing. The real importance of Kavishaila in Kuvempu’s life hits you when you climb it. The silent rockey terrain surrounded with thick forests is one among the best places of Kuppali. Sunset scene from the Kavishaila is exceptionally refreshing to the urban denizens like us. The impulsive architecture comprising stone beams over another modelled on the stonehenge in Southern England takes us to the period of megalithic age. But still more important atop kavishaila is the palpable prescense of the towering personality of Kannada literature, the late Kuvempu. His samadhi at the centre of it decorated with natural leaves and flowers unnoticengly catches up our attention.

A few metres away from his samadhi is the rock on which Kuvempu and his friends would sit and talk about life and literature. The beauty of Kavishaila and Navilukallu, another place that provided the poet with resource for his poems, the changing colours of the dusk are virtually a visual treat for visitors. The rock has the autographs of Kuvempu, T S Venkannayya, B M Srikanthaiah (B M Sri) and Poornachandra Tejaswi etched on it but today marked with paint!
It would be great for anybody planning a visit to the place to read some of his works before getting to Kuppali. Otherwise the essence of these places would definitely miss out from one’s itinerary. Please do not spoil the nature in and around Kuppali with heavy traffic and plastic. Alow it to be like Kuvempu’s Kuppali and honour the wishes of poet.

P.S.:Kuppalli is 350 km from Bangalore, 80 km from Shimoga and 18km from Thirthahalli. KSRTC operates a regular Rajahamsa bus service to Kuppali from Bangalore. Important places to cover are the Kavimane, Kavishaila, Kuvempu Study Centre, Navilukallu and Chibbalugudde (both near Kuppali)